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Installation Instructions:

Install front wheel and motor

1. Check distance between the front forks. You must have a minimum of 3.75" at the dropouts (where the wheel bolts on) and at least 3" between the forks going from the dropouts and up the forks 4". Bend the forks out a little if needed. You also need 10mm dropout hole width for clearance of the 10mm axle of the motor. If you do not have 10mm clearance then use a different bicycle to install the kit on or have a bike shop change out the fork to one that has the proper clearances.
On most forks 10mm is standard. Some bikes may require slight filing of the paint on the dropouts in order for the go-hub wheel to seat properly. NOTE: DO NOT FILE AWAY ANY METAL ON THE FORK AS THIS WILL WEAKEN THE DROPOUTS. IF NECESSARY FILE THE METAL ON THE FLAT SPOTS OF THE MOTOR AXLE IN ORDER TO FIT YOUR FORKS DROPOUT.
2. Loosen front brake cable so that the brake shoes spring all the way open.
3. Turn bike upside down and rest it on the seat and handlebars.
4. Remove air from front tire, loosen front wheel nuts and remove wheel. Remove your old tire and tube and install your tire using the new Slime tube included with your kit onto the Stealth wheel.
The tire is easy to remove and install. Just push it off the wheel with your fingers. If you have a tire lever slip it under the bead and go around the wheel until the tire is off. Place the heavy duty rubber rim tape around the wheel with the air valve hole lined up with the hole in the wheel. Place the Slime tube into the tire and the tube valve into the hole on the go-hub wheel. Slip the tire onto the wheel going around the wheel and pressing it on.
Note: Be careful not to damage any wires while mounting the tire.
5. Inflate the tire slightly and lower the new wheel into the dropouts (the slots at the bottom of the fork where the bolts go) with the wires coming out of the LEFT SIDE (opposite the chain side. Left side as sitting on the bike).
6. Make sure that the flat parts of the axle line up correctly with the flat sides of the dropouts and they are all the way down and in as far as the axle will go. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! If the axle is not seated properly and the flat spots not lined up correctly the axle will spin in the drop out when power is applied and damage the motor wires beyond repair. The flat sides of the axle on the side of the motor where the wires do not come out are easier to seat into the dropout by pulling the fork out a little, lower the axle into the dropout and then seat the flat portion closest to the motor by squeezing the fork onto it with the nut. This is easier than trying to push the flat portion of the axle into the dropouts. If the dropout is too tight then file away the paint on the dropout. DO NOT FILE AWAY METAL THAT COULD WEAKEN THE DROPOUT!! The motor wire should be coming out of the motor towards the bottom of the dropouts and slightly forward on the LEFT side of your bike (opposite chain side). SEE DIAGRAM.
7. Install lock clips and make sure that the tab seats into the small hole just above the axle on the fork. If the tabs do not line up with the holes in the fork then simply use a pair of channel lock pliers. Place the safety tab onto the motor axle, grip the sides of the tab with the channel lock pliers and twist it until the tabs line up with the fork holes.
 
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Tighten the front wheel nuts good and tight. Check the front wheel nuts for tightness before each ride.
8. Tighten the front cable at the wheel enough so that the front brakes work properly.
9. If your kit is equipped with safety brake levers loosen rear brake cable at the rear wheel with allen wrench.
10. Follow the same steps for the left side grip and brake lever.
8. Place washers and nuts onto axle and tighten down hard.
9. Inflate front tire.
10. Turn bike right side up and place on kickstand.
11. Be very careful not to disturb the wires coming out of the side of the motor. You will tie these to the fork later.

Install Thumb or Twist Throttle and Safety Brakes

1. Remove right side hand grip. If you have an air compressor then insert blower end under grip and it will blow the grip off of the bar.
You can also use a screwdriver. Place the screwdriver under the rubber grip while turning the grip with your hand.
2. Remove the brake cable from the lever by lining up the slots in the adjusting nuts to the right of the right brake lever. Squeeze the right brake lever and pull the cable out through the slots in the nuts and out of the bottom of the lever.
3. Using an allen wrench (most bikes are metric size) loosen screw that attaches the right brake lever. Remove the lever.
4. Slide the thumb throttle onto the handlebar with the wire facing in and towards the front . Do not tighten yet. NOTE: If you are using the twist throttle then skip this step.
5. Install the old brake lever or the new brake safety lever onto the handlebar (if your kit is equipped with safety brake levers). Line up the cable adjusting nuts, squeeze the lever and install the brake cable from underneath and slip it through the slit in the nuts. Release the lever and turn one of the adjusting nuts to close the slit.
NOTE: If you are using the twist type throttle then slip the throttle onto the handlebars at this point and skip step #4,6 and 7.
6. Put some water on the inside of the grip and slip the grip back onto the handlebar. Push it all the way in as far as it will go. If you have an air compressor then you can blow air between the grip and handlebars while pushing the grip on.
7. Push the brake lever next to the grip. Push the thumb throttle next to the brake lever. Line up the thumb throttle and brake lever to a comfortable position and tighten the allen screws.
NOTE: If you are using the twist throttle then push brake lever next to throttle, line up lever to a comfortable position and tighten. Tighten small allen screw on twist throttle. Do not over tighten!!
 
Installing the controller

Using 2 wire ties or the clamp supplied install the controller (small black box with all of the wires coming out of it) onto the front of the steering tube. Bend all of the wires straight down so the controller sits flush against the front of the steering tube with the wires go straight down. SEE DIAGRAM


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Install rear rack

Follow instructions that are included with the Topeak Explorer or Pyramid rack.
 

Wire tie motor and battery wires to bike

Start at the bottom of the front fork and bring the motor wire under the bolt and wire tie it going up to the back of the fork. 3-4 wires ties will be needed. Make sure that there is a little slack in the wire at the top of the fork to allow for steering. If more slack is needed then adjust the controller down a little on the steering tube. If there is too much slack then raise the controller a little.
Run the battery wire from the controller along the bottom of the top tube of the frame and wire tie every few inches all the way back to the trunk. 3-4 wire ties will be needed.
Note: The installation pictured at right shows wire coming up the right side of the fork. Current shipments need to have the wire on the left side of the fork opposite of what the bike pictured shows.




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Install Trunk

1. Your battery comes fully charged and pre-wired inside of the trunk.
Topeak trunk:
Lift the trunk with the top handle and line up the track on the bottom of the trunk with the track on the Topeak rack and slide the trunk from the rear onto the rack. Slide it forward up to the front rail of the rack. Push down on the plastic clip on the front of the trunk and it will lock onto the front rail of the rack.
go-hub low profile trunk and Pyramid rack:
Place go-hub trunk on top or Pyramid rack. Loop the 2 velcro straps on each side and the 1 strap in the front around the rack rails and to the sides of the trunk.
NOTE: With the extra weight of the batteries on the rear rack whenever the bike is on the kickstand always keep your handlebars turned to the right slightly. This will keep the bike balanced on the kickstand and prevent it from tipping over.



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Open the trunk by unzipping the right zipper near the key switch. The left zipper is used to hold the key switch in place. Remove all packing material inside.
2. Make sure that the ignition key is on the OFF position (turned all the way to the left).
3. Plug in the battery wire from the controller to the matching red and black connectors on the battery wire inside of the trunk.
4. Tuck the connectors and any excess battery wire into the trunk and close the top with the right zipper.
5. Pull the zipper right up to the battery wire and ignition lock with the lock face outside of the trunk (Topeak Trunk)
NOTE: For safety the key switch must be accessible so the rider is able to reach back and shut the motor off in an emergency.
Do not cut the wire tie that secures the lock to the left zipper on the trunk.(Topeak Trunk)
If you have the low profile go-hub trunk plug in the controller power wire into the red and black connector coming out of the front of the trunk.
Before riding check that all wires are wire tied properly and clear of the front wheel spokes.
Check that the trunk is secured by the plastic clip to the rack or the velcro straps if using the go-hub low profile trunk.
 



 
First Ride

You are now ready to experience the silent ride of your new go-hub motor kit.
Insert the key into the lock on the trunk and turn to the right.
The power light will illuminate on the thumb throttle.
Sit on your bike, make sure that all is clear in front and gradually push the thumb throttle with your thumb. DO NOT PUSH QUICKLY ON THE THROTTLE FROM A DEAD STOP.
With the go-hub motor you accelerate slowly giving the motor time to get up to speed. To conserve battery power, you can pedal from a dead stop and then gradually add power.
Your range will greatly increase if you pedal assist your bike along with using the motor. Range:10-15 miles no pedaling and 30+ miles with slight pedaling depending on conditions and weight of rider. By using the throttle to control the amount of energy you wish to exert and the bikes gears (if your bike is so equipped) to control your cadence (speed of pedaling) you now have a great work out machine similar to an adjustable stationary bike.
Try riding in different gears and throttle settings and you will find the perfect combination for a great exercise routine!!
The go-hub motor completely eliminates the struggle of cycling.
For safety the motor will cut off automatically when you apply the safety brakes (if so equipped) just in case you forget to release the thumb or twist throttle before braking.
Note: Do not ride with the thumb throttle pushed all the way down. Leave a little slack.
If you hit a bump in the road the slack will prevent you from accidently putting too much weight with your thumb onto the throtttle lever and possibly breaking it.

Charging the batteries

The Topeak Super Trunk contains a built in Soniel 2 amp 36V charger. With the built in charger you can charge your batteries anywhere at any time. The charger is connected to the battery pack with an XLR plug.
the go-hub low profile trunk only has one Anderson connector which is used for both powering the controller and also to connect the battery charger.
Do not leave the charger connected when not in use. This will drain the batteries.
Charge your batteries after each days use. Do not let the batteries sit for any length of time if they are not fully charged. This will shorten the life of the batteries.
To re-charge make sure that the key is in the OFF position.
Topeak trunk:
Open up trunk and connect the charger to the batteries with the 3 prong XLR plug. Take out the AC wire for the charger and plug into a wall outlet.
go-hub low profile trunk:
Disconnect the power wire going to the controller and plug the battery charger into the battery packs red and black connector.
Leave trunk top open while charging for ventilation.
The charger light will be yellow color while charging and turn green when fully charged (around 4-5 hrs. from a complete dis-charge). After batteries are fully charged dis-connect the charger from the batteries and from the wall outlet.
The Soneil charger included with your go-hub kit is an automatic charger and will not over charge the batteries if left connected after the batteries are fully charged.
It is however recommended that you dis-connect the charger from the wall outlet and from batteries after the green light comes on.
Sealed lead acid batteries will take a few re-charges to "break in" until they come up to their maximum performance capabilities.
If you are storing your bike for a long period of time then always store your bike with the batteries fully charged.
Re-charge them once a month since sealed lead acid batteries will naturally self dis-charge a little even if not used.
By keeping your batteries properly charged they will last 300 to 400 charges.
Before riding check that all wires are wire tied properly and clear of the front wheel spokes.
Check that the trunk is secured by the clip-on lock or velcro straps to the rack.
Avoid storing your batteries in extreme hot or cold temperatures.

Repairing a flat front tire

The Slime tube included with your kit contains Slime which will seal most punctures up to 1/8'.
Should you get a flat and need to change the tire and or tube simply do the following:
1. Release the front brake cable at the wheel and turn the bike upside down.
2. Undo the controller clamp or cut the 2 wire ties if this is the way you attached the controller to your bike.
3. Cut the motor wire ties on the fork and also the ties securing the battery wire on the top tube.
4. Loosen and remove the wheel nuts and lift the wheel off to repair.
There is enough slack in the throttle wire to be able to remove the wheel and repair it near the bike.
If you need to remove the wheel and carry it away from the bike then open up the controller (3 screws on the back) and gently unplug the motor wires from the circuit board.
5. Replace the repaired wheel into the dropouts. Put the safety clips on with the washers and tighten the nut.
6. Inflate the tire. Note: Do not inflate the tire until it is mounted since if is inflated before it is mounted the front brake will prevent it from going on.
7. Mount the controller, replace the wire ties and adjust the front brake cable.

Safety

1. This go-hub electric bike kit is recommended for riders 16 yrs. and older.
2. Maximum load is 250 lbs.
3. Always wear an approved safety helmet while riding.
4. Watch for gravel, sand, water, ice and oil slicks while riding.
5. Always make sure that there is clearance in front of you before pushing on the thumb or twist throttle.
6. Riding at night in not advised.
7. Never ride with a passenger. This is dangerous and can cause personal injury and also put a strain on the motor.
8. Always make sure that the battery trunk is properly secured.
9. Do not make sharp turns. With the increase of weight on the rear rack if you have to brake suddenly while making a sharp turn you risk skidding the rear wheel and have the bike fall on it's side.
10. NEVER JUMP CURBS!! This can cause damage to the front wheel and motor.
11. Make sure that the tires are properly inflated before riding.
12. ALWAYS CHECK THE FRONT WHEEL NUTS BEFORE RIDING. THEY MUST BE TIGHT!!
13. The go-hub motor kit is not designed for rough off road riding situations.

 
You are responsible for the safe installation and operation of the go-hub electric bike kit.
The go-hub distributors, dealers and manufacturer will not be held liable for any reason whatsoever.